Little-known fact: Before he was recruited from Bouley to open Cru, Shea Gallante spent his formative years cooking for Pino Luongo and Lidia Bastianich. Ciano, opening next week in the former Beppe space, marks Gallante's official return to the Italian fold. Fellow Cru alum John Slover, having made Bar Henry a half-bottle destination, employs the same strategy here, matching international wines to dishes like veal-ricotta meatballs with truffle glaze (pictured), ten-hour-roasted heirloom carrots with goats-milk yogurt, and Chatham cod with puttanesca fresca.
Ciano, 45 E. 22nd St., nr. Park Ave. S.; 212-982-8422