What to Eat at Village Lobster and Crabhouse, Now Serving Lobster Rolls and Oyster Loafs

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Photo: Aviva Shen

The Maryland seafood shack has seen upscale interpretations in the form of Butcher Bay and Choptank, but last week a slightly more pedestrian version quietly (indeed silently!) soft-opened in the space that housed Steak Frites and then Lucy Brownes. Village Lobster and Crabhouses SPORTS BAR signage has been up for some weeks; with the doors now open, we can reveal that the man behind it is Andrew Silverman, who also operates City Crab and Dukes. The décor here isnt quite as over-the-top as at Dukes (there are a few flat-screen TVs, some boat oars in a bucket, the obligatory buoys, and wood paneling reminiscent of lobster traps), but the service is just as down-home and chirpy. Expect to be called brother and my man multiple times during the course of your meal here.

The half-dozen beers on tap ($4 during happy hour, till 7 p.m.) are nothing special (Hoegaarden, Blue Moon, Bud, Bud Light, Sierra Nevada, Guinness). In addition to the preview-menu items you see below, theres an Our Butchers Blend Burger Village Hamburger with caramelized onions, a crab-and-shrimp Cobb salad, the obligatory grouper sandwich, and an oyster loaf (essentially a po boy), as well as oyster sliders and a lobster roll.

Village Lobster and Crabhouse, 225 Varick St., nr. Downing St.; 646-861-2985