Mile End may have brought Montreal-style smoked meat to New York, but when it comes to potato pancakes, says owner Noah Bernamoff, there are no regional distinctions — “only good latkes and bad latkes.” For the restaurant’s first Festival of Lights (and relatedly, of foods fried in oil), Bernamoff will offer a nightly latke trio ($10): one Yukon-chive, one butternut squash, and one parsnip-and-celery-root, garnished with tart housemade apple sauce, sweet chunky quincesauce, and smoked-paprika sour cream. For dessert: the doughnuts called sufganiyot, stuffed with Mile End’s own Concord-grape jelly, and olive-oil cake.
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