Lutèce Is Coming Back! (Kind Of!)

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Well, the dining room isn't coming back. Photo: Howard Earl Simmons/NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images

We're all familiar with Lutèce, right? André Soltner's now-closed French restaurant in midtown? It was considered the country's best restaurant for decades? Gets name-checked on, like, every episode of Mad Men? Well, the Post's Steve Cuozzo is definitely familiar with it. Or at least, he wishes he were: "Lutèce — at least the myth of Lutè — has obsessed me since I first read about it," he writes today. You see, he went before it closed, but never really went, since Soltner sold the place in 1994 and it just wasn't the same. But he's a little excited about an upcoming dinner!

But he's careful not to get too excited: On January 7, "An Homage to the Legend of Lutèce" is being held at Avery Fisher Hall. Classic Soltner dishes like braised veal cheeks will be served, but the cooking's going to be done by a catering company. So maybe it will be great! Maybe not! Soltner will oversee the cooking, so there's hope. Then again, he also oversees the students at the French Culinary Institute, and it sounds like people aren't always so jazzed about what's coming out of that kitchen. Whatever. At least the dinner's not being held in Brooklyn. Tickets are $225 each, and you can order them by calling 212-875-5656 or clicking here. Here's a look at the menu:

Amuse Bouche
Tartelette à l'Oignon à l'Alsacienne (Alsatian onion tart)
Jalousie de Crabe et d'Epinards (Crabmeat and spinach pastry)

First Course
Potage au Potiron avec Croutons (Pumpkin soup with croutons)

Main course
Joues de Veau Braisées au Pinot Noir (Veal cheeks braised in red wine)

Spätzeles Printaniére (Noodle dumplings with mixed vegetables)
Dessert

Bavarois aux Poires, Sauce Chocolat Amer (Pear Bavarian Cream with bitter
chocolate sauce)

Longing for the je ne sais quoi of Lutéce [NYP]