William Grimes on the Greatest of All-Time

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Though coming up with a list of the ten greatest restaurants of all-time, as Robert Sietsema did last week, is like naming the 10 greatest tenors before the era of recorded sound, William Grimes (former Times critic, "New York Diet" alum, and author of Appetite City) cant resist publishing an alternate list that runs the gamut from Old Toms, a rundown chophouse from the early 1800s, to The Four Seasons, which pioneered the idea of a restaurant as a seamless work of art. [Diners Journal/NYT]