The Other Critics

Bauer Renews Poggio’s Three Stars; Stafford Gets Happy at Disco Volante

Photo: Courtesy of Poggio

Michael Bauer says, “You can practically taste the chef’s passion in each and every bite,” at Poggio, and he’s referring to chef Peter McNee, who’s been heading the kitchen at the Sausalito restaurant for about six years now. Bauer’s glad to see McNee keeping things fresh, adding to the menu, and extending his once-annual bollito misto service throughout the winter (Monday through Wednesday). “It’s filled with oxtail, veal breast, sausage, brisket and condiments so the meat can be carved and plated in front of each diner; at $19, it’s an amazing deal.” Also, he’s a big fan of the cauliflower sformatino, the chicken mattone, and the lemon mousse on the dessert list: “One of the best I’ve had… It’s as light as whipped cream, with fresh-squeezed lemony tartness balanced by just enough sugar to round out any puckery edges.” All told: three stars. [Chron, Bauer’s earlier review from 2008]

Over in Oakland, Matt Stafford of the East Bay Express writes, “We felt happy as soon as we walked into Disco Volante… through some indefinable admixture of décor, mood, clientele, and soundscape, conspire to make the new arrival [in the place] buoyant and confident and bright with anticipation.” He raves about the crispy tempura avocado tacos, “And the pork ribs were some of the best we’d had: smoky, meaty, and tender enough to make any sort of sauce unnecessary.” He also notes the Root Beer Sunk on the dessert menu, which features some “rootsy, funky house-made sassafras ice cream” in “pallid” vanilla soda, and the “exceptional” beer selection, but says there’s no house cocktail list as of yet. [EB Express]

Bauer Renews Poggio’s Three Stars; Stafford Gets Happy at Disco Volante