Compose Loses Its Composer, Chef Nick Curtin

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Poached diver scallops, lemon-fennel puree, dill. Photo: Photo: Roxanne Behr/New York Magazine

A rep for Nick Curtin tells us the former Jacks Luxury Oyster Bar sous is resigning as executive chef at Tribeca tasting-menu newcomer Compose, effective at the end of the month. Reviews for the restaurant, which opened a handful of months ago, were mixed: Julia Moskin of the Times wrote that the 23-year-old Curtins cooking belonged in the haute-foam family, but with the attention to balance that reflects his time in the empire of Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Jay Cheshes of Time Out found the food too precious, derivative and short on thrills to merit its exorbitant price tag. Curtin says in a statement, I'm looking forward to pursuing other culinary endeavors where I can continue to push the boundaries of cuisine, and explore new combinations of taste, texture, and presentation.