Sietsema Likes the Intestines at He Nan Flavor; Cuozzo Mixed on La Mar

Robert Sietsema reviews He Nan Flavor in Chinatown, where the sour noodle soups are the winner, and the two great choices are the ones with lamb either in chunk or intestine form. Of the noodle dishes, beef brisket hu mei is the most delicious. Stick with the traditional options, and avoid the sesame chicken, which, youll find, is the same sticky, deep-fried staple served at neighborhood Cantonese restaurants. [VV]

Tables for Two reviews Williamsburgs St. Anselm, and discovers a delightfully juicy pork chop, a tender, gamy lamb saddle, and a bloody steal of an inexpensive and delicious hangar steak. The dessert menu is largely disappointing some of the sweet plates look like what happens when a four-year-old is left alone in a pantry but the vanilla ice cream garnished with fried pig skin redeems. [NYer]
Related: Steakhouse Undercover [NYM]

Lauren Shockey visits new cheese outpost Beecher's Handmade Cheese. The ground level is a top-quality, one-stop shopping for cocktail party bites, but venture a floor lower and youll find a cozy-yet-casual space for dinner and drinks. Curd nerds should ignore the gimmick-y grilled cheese martini, but the Beechers cheese plate is a must, as is the original macaroni and cheese the culinary equivalent of cashmere underwear: comforting, warming, and decadent enough for you to feel a twinge of guilt. [VV]

Julia Moskin checks out East Village steakhouse Prime & Beyond, which serves wonderful beef, all of it prime, at below-market prices. The wet-aged filet mignon bursts with juice and flavor, as do the piles of Korean-style meat, from beef short ribs to the deeply flavored oxtail soup. In terms of other courses, try the delicious, excellent mushrooms, but ignore the forgettable desserts. [NYT]

Steve Cuozzo is mixed on La Mar Cebicheria Peruana but ends up dealing it two and a half stars. The restaurant loses on decor, as the main level is airport-like and the upstairs, only slightly better, a big grey snore. But with the food, the kitchen gets three out of four ceviches right, and the hamachi version is haunting. The appetizers regularly scored, in particular the corn cake and the jalea, and the entree of aji de galina was a homestyle dish refined. Dont miss the tongue-tickling desserts like the suspiro loco. [NYP]