Nostalgia: Rachou Wants Le Lavandou Back, a Writer Reflects on the Early Days of Marcus Samuelsson

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From past to present and back.

Word on the street is that temperamental old-timer Jean Jacques Rachou of La Côte Basque fame wants to rebuild his "long ago abandoned" Le Lavandou on the Upper East Side. He just has to bribe Wajima the Japanese restaurant occupying the space now to go away. Meanwhile, Andrew Friedman remembers a young Marcus Samuelsson with respect, affection, and introspection. [Insatiable Critic, Toqueland]