Nostalgia: Rachou Wants Le Lavandou Back, a Writer Reflects on the Early Days of Marcus Samuelsson

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From past to present and back.

Word on the street is that temperamental old-timer Jean Jacques Rachou of La Côte Basque fame wants to rebuild his "long ago abandoned" Le Lavandou on the Upper East Side. He just has to bribe Wajima — the Japanese restaurant occupying the space now — to go away. Meanwhile, Andrew Friedman remembers a young Marcus Samuelsson with respect, affection, and introspection. [Insatiable Critic, Toqueland]