Ryan Sutton has mixed impressions of Saxon + Parole, and writes that it’s “where New Yorkers become unwitting participants in blind beverage tastings,” adding “You become suspicious when they don’t even offer a standard taste before making you buy one of those wallet drainers.” “Order a $14 Four Graces pinot noir for some acid balance,” he suggests, “or muscle up and knock back a spicy Manhattan on draught and the $18 burger.” Regarding the Blue Point oysters, he says, “you might find yourself grinding bits of shell and sand.” [Bloomberg]
Steve Cuozzo is unimpressed by Bowery Diner, where he says, “A huge wall photo shows an old subway car being dumped into the sea,” adding, “Better they deep-six the menu, which mingles burgers and whelks.” He continues, “Although pricier than a true diner, the lineup’s at least reasonable enough. And straightforward desserts hit the spot — sweet, unpretentious and perfectly turned out, especially crisp-crusted cherry pie. But they’re too few, too late.” [NYP]
Pete Wells calls Il Buco Alimentari and Vineria “New York’s most complete realization so far of a powerful myth: the simple and convivial spot that tastes just like Italy,” adding, “there were a dozen little tastes that made me fall for this restaurant.” He continues by saying, “The work they are doing now, […] is the kind of exceptional reward Manhattan bestows on people who are stubborn, tireless and have the right timing.”
[NYT]
Julia Moskin visits the recently opened Machiavelli, which she says “is like visiting a museum of Italian food — complete with long-winded exhibition catalogs.” She notes, “It’s possible to have a lovely evening and a very good meal here,” but adds, “With high prices across the board, it’s equally possible to leave feeling underwhelmed by bland food and listless servers.” [NYT]
Robert Sietsema also stops into Bowery Diner this week, where he says “the menu’s bedrock is seven hamburgers, priced about twice what you’d expect to pay in a diner. Nevertheless, the hamburger deluxe ($14) is opulently good.” He also prefers the French onion soup ($9), but calls the clam chowder “less satisfactory.” [VV]
