After failing to make a go of it with his native borscht and blini, Russian entrepreneur Andrey Dellos closed his not-quite-yearling Brasserie Pushkin and enlisted two Eleven Madison Park vets to give the posh midtown space a culinary and atmospheric makeover. Chef Bryce Shuman takes a seasonal modern-American approach in dishes like asparagus pappardelle with fresh curds and shellfish ragoût with nettles and cranberry beans, and bakes all breads and desserts in-house. General manager Eamon Rockey most recently worked at Aska and Atera, and the naturalist bent of those restaurants is reflected in Betonys name, which refers to a medicinal herb believed in the Middle Ages to ward off evil and bad dreams.
Betony, 41 W. 57th St., nr. Sixth Ave.; 212-465-2400
*This article originally appeared in the May 20, 2013 issue of New York Magazine.