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Does Joe Dobias Want to Inflict Bodily Harm on Grub Street?

Photo: Courtesy of Joe Doe

We’re starting to worry just a little bit about Joe Dobias, the “aggressive American” chef who lashed out at “shithead bloggers” after a couple of them gave him less than favorable reviews. Back then, he explained to us why he banned Eater from his eponymous restaurant: “Instead of helping the people they should be helping (like you guys do at New York Magazine), Eater just likes to take people down.” But now we, too, are in Joe Doe’s crosshairs, as evidenced by multiple tweets mentioning Adam Platt and your humble narrator, Grub Street editor Daniel Maurer. Here’s the most troubling of them, posted on Friday and now deleted: “I was riding my bike and was hoping to see danny, just so I could run his ass down! No such luck.”

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Bunny Chow Up For Sale; New Gluten-Free Bakery in the East Village

Cobble Hill: Café on Clinton hasn't opened its doors for about a month, even though tables are set inside. [Brownstoner]
East Village: Tully's Gluten-Free Bakery opened for business today on East 11th Street. [Fork in the Road/VV]
Greenpoint: Kumquat Cupcakery and Liddabit Sweets are opening a Valentine's Day–themed pop-up shop at Kill Devil Hill, called Sweet Shop. [Feed/TONY]

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Malcolm Gladwell’s Guide to Drunks

Malcolm Gladwell has written a New Yorker piece about the culture of drinking that we are just way too hammered to read right now. You tell us. [NYer]

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Plan Your Valentine's Day with the Chandon Concierge

valentine.chandon.com

Valentine's Day is about Perfect Pairs (you and your sweetheart, wine and chocolate). Whether you are staying in or stepping out, Chandon Sparkling Wines is on call to help you plan a memorable evening. Visit valentine.chandon.com to plan a perfect food and wine pairing for Valentine's Day. For those planning a night on the town, find and book restaurant reservations in one place. For those staying in, you can print out ingredients lists, recipes, and a wine pairing for a perfect evening. This service is also available on your mobile device at m.chandon.com.

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Inside the Bocuse D’Or USA Finals

The Bocuse D’Or USA finals yesterday in Hyde Park resembled Iron Chef. The twelve-chef tournament is a kitchen-versus-kitchen competition in front of a live audience, judged by culinary luminaries, with a limited set of central ingredients (salmon, lamb) and a stressfully restrictive time limit (3.5 hours). But the converted gymnasium at the Culinary Institute of America was no Kitchen Stadium: Instead of engaging with the audience and performing for the cameras, competitors worked in stoic isolation, separated from the audience and one another in Plexiglas kitchen cubicles, while in-house video crews caught every move for the large projection screens hanging overhead.

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Tables Available at Jean Georges, Nobu; DBGB Kitchen & Bar Mostly Booked

It's 4 p.m., and that means it's time to play Two for Eight. We just asked ten restaurants the best time they can squeeze a couple in for dinner; you need only make your chosen reservation. (As always, we make the calls but don't guarantee the results.) Today: Certified Geniuses.

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The Great Meatball Migration

Photo: Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine

Chef groupies who track such things might have noticed a recent eastward migration we’ll call the A16 diaspora. Within the span of five months, three new restaurants will have opened in downtown Manhattan, each with a chef who was at one time connected to San Francisco’s popular Southern Italian restaurant and pizzeria, A16. First, founding chef-partner Christophe Hille opened Northern Spy Food Co. in November (as partner, not chef). Next month — March 9, to be precise — Hille’s onetime sous-chef and eventual successor, Nate Appleman, opens Pulino’s Bar and Pizzeria. And this week, as reported in the magazine, Daniel Holzman, who briefly joined Appleman as co-executive chef at SPQR, A16’s Roman spinoff, unveils the Meatball Shop on the Lower East Side.

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Waverly Inn’s John DeLucie Will Open the Lion

Hammers and drills were working overtime this weekend at 62 West 9th Street where Waverly Inn chef and author of The Hunger John DeLucie and his partner, Delicatessen owner Mark Amadei, are readying a 140-seat restaurant. The Lion, opening at the end of next month, will be two stories and serve classic American fare from steaks and chops to burgers. The space, which previously housed the restaurant Village, will take on more of an old-world feel, but with updated art, and the team is currently meeting with collectors and dealers in a search for works by Andy Warhol and David La Chapelle.

Maury Rubin Sees Connection Between Drinking Hot Chocolate and Knitting Sweaters

Manny the MarshmallowPhoto: Courtesy of City Bakery

The eighteenth annual City Bakery hot-chocolate festival is in full swing, punctuating bleak winter with a different flavor daily. But every year, chef-owner Maury Rubin devotes one night to a special, usually eccentrically themed celebration, and this year’s might be the most eccentric yet. The Night of Knitting on February 18 combines food, all-you-can-drink hot chocolate, and hot chocolate–themed knitting workshops. Why, exactly? In Rubin’s own words: “I was minding my own business in the store one morning, watching this woman knit. And I thought, knitting feels like hot chocolate.

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Má Pêche Teases Its Menu for Edible Schoolyard

While the opening date of Má Pêche is closely guarded, David Chang and chef Tien Ho debuted new dishes at a kickoff party with Alice Waters for Edible Schoolyard New York last night. Supporters of P.S. 216 in Brooklyn paid $350 to fund the $1.6 million greenhouse and garden project. In exchange, guests tried hors d’oeuvres like oxtail rillette with chanterelles and pine nuts, beef cheek and onion tartlets, beef tartar with charred scallions scooped onto tiny shrimp chips, short ribs with hoisin, and fried cauliflower with fresh mint and fish sauce. The beverage of choice was a Pear Collins: pear cider, apple brandy, and maple syrup.

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Alice Waters’s Lazy Sunday

"I sometimes come by the restaurant and talk to the cooks. I sometimes walk to a bookstore... Mostly I just stay home. It’s the one time I feel like I can exhale, and just get ready to begin again." — Slow-food evangelist and Chez Panisse proprietor Alice Waters in the Times' Sunday Routine column. [NYT]

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Luzzo’s Goes West

Luzzo’s Michele Iuliano, whose business card reads, “Owner-Founder Executive Pizzaiolo,” has been awfully busy these past months. Last week, we told you about the excellent square pizza and other doughy delights he’s recently added to the First Avenue flagship. Now the executive pie-man has opened a new restaurant called Ovest Pizzoteca by Luzzo right in the middle of West 27th Street’s Club Row, as if he were a budding Amy Sacco. The so-called pizzoteca (pizzeria, paninoteca, and enoteca all in one) actually opened on New Year’s Eve, but the wood-and-gas burning pizza oven (which sits opposite a cozy copper-topped dining counter) won’t be up and running until this week (maybe today), which will make it official.

513 W. 27th St., nr. Tenth Ave.; 212-967-4392

Joey Campanaro Will Be Chef at Paul Sevigny’s Kenmare

When we heard last week that Joey Campanaro was catering a preopening party at Paul Sevingy and Nur Khan’s Kenmare, we wondered whether it meant he was in the running (just like Anne Burrell may have been) to be the inevitable hot spot’s chef. Sevigny was mum on the matter, but now Diner’s Journal gets confirmation from the Little Owl chef himself: “What I really like this [sic] that this part of town is turning into a real restaurant neighborhood, what with Jimmy Bradley and Micheal White opening around the corner.”

Joey Campanaro to Be Chef at Kenmare [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

Bill Murray and Anthony Bourdain Go on a Man Date

Bill Murray tends to show up in unexpected places, and his appearance on tonight’s aforementioned Hudson Valley episode of No Reservations is no exception. Here's a clip of Bourdain and Murray at X20 in Yonkers, and check out Tony’s blog for his story about riding shotgun with Murray (in an SUV, not a golf cart).

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Todd English Tries to Forget 2009

"It’s been a year of reinvention," understates Todd English in a massive Globe profile of the celebrity chef. To recap: English was named in no fewer than five lawsuits, including one filed by the landlord of his D.C. Olives; the owner of a Soho apartment he leased; the florist for his aborted wedding, a New York publicist; and, most bizarrely, a New York recording studio, which charges that English rented the studio and never paid. Are we missing out on a Todd English album?

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Dinosaur Bar-B-Que’s Expansion May Be Low and Slow

Don’t get too excited about Dinosaur Bar-B-Que’s expansion just yet. After getting the latest from John Stage about the waterfront location that opens upstate this summer, the Troy Record informs: “As for whether there will be any further expansions of the chain in the future, Stage said that remains unclear. ‘I never say anything until I feel it,’ he said, noting that, with the Troy opening and moving his Harlem location across the street in New York City, he couldn’t see himself opening another location right away.”

The man behind Dinosaur Bar-B-Que [Troy Record]

Ray’s Gets Deliverance

The grassroots gutter-punk movement to save Ray’s continues, as volunteers are now delivering Obama burgers and egg creams on Saturday nights (till 5 a.m.!). [Neither More Nor Less]

Magnolia Bakery’s Line Gets It in Trouble

Apparently Magnolia Bakery’s long lines aren’t just a pain in the neck for those trying to squeeze past the hoards at the West Village location: If the Community Board has its way, the lines in the café area of the Upper West Side location may cost the cupcake-maker its sidewalk café license. According to the West Side Independent, CB7 is recommending that the Department of Consumer Affairs not renew the license for the enclosed café, which was intended for seating but is being used by waiting cupcake crazies. Hey, if it keeps them off the street, it’s okay by us.

Magnolia Bakery Denied Permit for Sidewalk Café [West Side Independent]

Adam Platt on Tipsy Parson; Urban Forager: Bakery Edition

In the magazine this week, Adam Platt reviews two newcomers serving southern food and small plates, respectively. Tipsy Parson “is clearly designed as a decorous, tea-social alternative to the usual barbecue joints and fry houses that pass for southern restaurants in this Yankee town,” he writes. But he misses some staples like fried chicken: “Since this popular, consistently crowded restaurant opened, several of the more traditionalist southern-style appetizers and entrées appear to have been excised from the menu.” Further downtown, “the Denton brothers’ latest dining outlet, Corsino … seems to have been designed with durability, and a high turnover rate, in mind,” complains Platt. “None of the pastas or entrées cost over $20, and most are competent in a serviceable, professional way, but not outstanding.”

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Health Recycles Recipes; FDA Reconsiders Serving Sizes

Health's December issue recycled recipes from Real Simple. Both magazines are owned by Time Inc. [NYT]

• Greenpoint's Automotive High School offers a class called "Food, Land, and You." The students read Michael Pollan articles and take food trips to the Meat Hook. [NYT]

• Fast-food restaurants are "getting customers to think of them in a more positive light by accentuating cues like higher-quality menu items or lower-calorie fare," according to an industry research company. [NRN]

• The FDA may change standard serving sizes to more accurately reflect how much Americans eat. [NYT]

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02/07/10

New Yorker Will Represent U.S. at Bocuse d’Or

Congratulations to James Kent, sous-chef at Eleven Madison Park, who will represent the United States next year at the Bocuse d'Or. Kent, with commis Tom Allan, also of EMP, bested eleven other chefs yesterday at the U.S. finals competition at the CIA in Hyde Park. We'll have full details of the event tomorrow; Kent's winning menu is below.

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